It was in 2002 when Chef Ritu Dalmia had first bought white truffles. “I managed to sell 15 grams out of the kilo I had got in, and the person who bought it said he got it because it was the most expensive dish on the menu. He promptly returned it saying it was stinky. Now we just can’t get enough of it,” says celebrity chef Dalmia.
Cut to 2019 at Shangri-La’s Italian restaurant Sorrento, the White Alba Truffles promotion’ is a major hit and the dishes were sold out on the initial days of the promotion itself. “This shows that guests have developed a taste for such culinary diamonds, are appreciative of ingredients and are open to experiment,” says Shangri-La’s executive chef Sahil Arora. Stinky truffles’ are now a favourite across the city that, apart from Italian restaurants, it also makes an appearance in French fries, with restaurants serving variations of truffle fries’.
GROWTH STORY
Dalmia’s Diva The Italian Restaurant in GK II came up at a time when Delhi could barely learn how to pronounce pizza. Dalmia says, “To be completely honest, I was taking a big risk when we opened Diva in 2000. I had already been a failure at my first Italian restaurant in 1995, but honestly, I did not know or have the confidence to do any other cuisine. Thankfully, this time around I was luckier, the timing was better, and of course, the rest is history.”
The love and acceptance with which Italian cuisine has been received in India has been phenomenal. From importing authentic ingredients to creating Indianised versions of pizza, pasta, risotto or even tiramisu, the cuisine is well-known in the culinary circuit. So much so that it doesn’t feel like something that’s not native to us. Explains Chef Marco Murenu Italian Chef de cuisine at Prego, The Westin Gurgaon, “The roots of Italian and Indian cuisine are very similar; dynamic and rich history, diversity, fresh produce, warm, flavourful, and always served full of love. Both the cuisines are deep reflections of the respective cultures. Also, as the Indian palate is extremely inviting and accepting, I had no doubt that Italian cuisine is here to stay.” This also explains how Dalmia’s Diva group of restaurants recently celebrated the fourth edition of the World Week of Italian Cuisine in Delhi. Dalmia says, “I truly believe that the best way to understand a culture is via its food. The response has been amazing, and each year we get bolder. Last year, we did a dinner based on Rossini; this year it was inspired by Leonardo da Vinci. I don’t think these would have worked 10 years ago.”
Le Meridien Gurgaon’s Chef Roberto, who recently introduced an experiential dining menu says, “From being an unfamiliar cuisine to the second favourite international cuisine in the country, Italian food has a special place in the market because of its informal and relaxed style. Earlier, people were just aware of the native Italian flavours, which their taste buds were exposed to. Now, the trend has changed and people are adopting the taste of authentic Italian food.”
CHANGING MINDSET
La Piazza at Hyatt Regency Delhi recently celebrated its 25 years of existence, a feat not many restaurants can achieve. This restaurant has seen people’s palate evolve and the new menu that they’ve introduced has specially curated dishes such as asparagus and smoked salmon salad, shrimp morsels, tagliolini with baby lobster and artichoke, among others. Chef de cuisine of La Piazza, Gregorio Lostia, says, “The additions to the menu bring seasonal and regional twist to the Italian classics, focusing on fresh and seasonal produce, just like in Italy. We have also finally introduced the non-vegetarian variation of our pizza.”
It isn’t surprising then that Italian food enthusiasts were excited to try something as localised as dishes from Sardinia, an island in Italy. Says Chef Mureno, “We introduced flavours of Sardinia that were inspired by the food cooked in Sardinian homes, and it was such a success that we launched a new menu for our bespoke diners along the same lines. Some of the best items on the menu are Zuppa Di Zucca E Calamari (luscious and flavourful pumpkin and calamari soup); Cappellacci Ai Funghi Selvatici (a rustic and hearty meal enriched with wild mushrooms), Fregola Di Gamberi (Sardinian couscous with prawns in a bisque) and the most traditional Sardinian dessert Seadas Con Miele Di Acacia somewhat a pastry, somewhat savoury.” Adds Arora, “Italian food was mostly being looked as a home-cooked comfortable food or ‘Nonna’s Kitchen’ but it has evolved over time with invent of new cooking techniques and methods such as sous vide and dehydration. Chefs are all out to experiment and give guests a new experience with an interesting twist to their food.”
BEYOND JUST PIZZAS
Diets almost always take a backseat when a cheesy pizza is served. The fascination of Indians for pizza is perhaps almost akin to their undying love for chole bhature or samosa. And that’s, why it comes as as a surprise to learn that it isn’t just pizza that is the most popular dish across restaurants in the city. Chef Mureno informs, “I have realised that, over time, Delhiites have become extremely fond of wellprepared seafood. Gamberi Gratinati E Salsa Brandy one of my most favourite king prawn recipes never ceases to delight our guests.”
At Sorrento, however, it is lamb chops and black cod fish that seems to be currently trending. While patrons swear by La Piazzas’ tiramisu, the sun-dried tomato and basil stuffed chicken, pan-seared seabass, and squid and rocket leaves risotto are a few dishes loved by non-vegetarians.
Dalmia, however, has the most honest feedback and says, “Did I mention earlier that we now understand there is more to Italian food than just pasta and pizza? I was lying! The most popular dish still remains a pizza or pasta with tomato.”
source https://cvrnewsdirect.com/italy-on-my-plate-mail-today-news/
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